Saturday, July 04, 2009

Fountains of Flame; Wheels of Fire

A July Fourth reminiscence.


I have great memories of fireworks.
When was a kid, like many my age, I was a budding pyrotechnist. But I'd spend my free time Saturdays at the New Haven Public Library, researching old manuals and "The History of Pyrotechnics". Our basement was a semi-clandestine workshop and lab for my small firework creations.


Once, in the late 1950's, at the North Haven, CT County Fair, we viewed a bucolic or rustic sort of display. It was notable in that two stout posts were sunk into the ground about 100 feet apart. When the Catherine wheels on the posts went off, reciprocating pulses of colorful fire were sent shooting along a wire strung between the two posts.

There were also especially entertaining, "helicopter" type aerial spinners that would spiral up and explode. There were special Japanese mortar shells that after rising to a considerable height, would splinter into thousands of sizzling red scintillating embers, briefly fracturing the night sky.

The Hayseed Rube climax was unforgettable. Over at the right post, there suddenly appeared a firework donkey, outlined in blue fire. It lazily moseyed towards the left post. About midway, it halted, and emitted a forceful stream of golden fire as if it were peeing. The crowd, as it were, ate it up.


After that bit of rural jocularity came the obligatory American Flag set piece; one of the few times when it's o.k. the burn the Flag in public.


I also remember the food concessions area and the huge kettle of lard in which rough dough balls were fried into greasy snacks, covered with powdered sugar and sold still semi raw in the center. I loved it all!

Another Fourth of July, another, more professionally choreographed and spectacular display was at Lighthouse Point, on Long Island Sound, New Haven, CT.


A huge crowd gathered along the shore to watch the elaborate and lengthy show. No money was spared to make it awesome. It was marred only a little by the igniting of the marsh grasses at the time of the stupendous, sky-slashing, thundering finale. Of course the New Haven Fire Department was already present.


I remember the overall excellence of the pieces, and the pacing was superb, but unlike the funky, rural North Haven Fair show, nothing specific stands out in my mind.


A few years later, my family moved to Saint Louis County, MO. As the Independence Day holday approached, I discovered that the neighborhood Unitarian Church was going to have a fireworks display. I ingratiated myself with the amateur team chosen to fire the show. They must have been impressed by my dubious "credentials"; and I was in! Oh, Joy!


That night, the show proceeded well, considering what amateurs we were. We'd drop the pasteboard mortar bombs into the inclined iron pipes, sunk into the ground, pull off the protective end cover from the fuse, light it with a fusee flare and scuttle to the dubious shelter of a low, earthern berm. Whooshh!! BANG!!
It was fun! It was exciting!


When the moment came for the show finale, we opened the large cardboard carton that contained perhaps 6 heavy pasteboard mortars, all intricately fused.


Then, stupidly, we lifted them out of the box and placed them on the ground. When the fuse was lit, Newton's Third Law of Motion came into play. The group of mortars now pointed in nearly every direction, firing unpredictably, more at ground level than up in the air. It was exciting! It was fun! VoooooP! BANG!


We looked forward to a rest with the set piece American Flag. Whomever had set it up had not sunk its posts securely into the ground. When we fired the flag, the framework wobbled, and we were obliged to grasp the posts with our arms to keep it from falling. There were sparks...but actually no significant burns resulted.


The bad part was the next day, when I finally discovered what "chiggers" were. (slightly gross pic behind that link) The grass into which we dove the night before was a chigger haven.

And now, at last, this post's Mexican finale:


Our experiences with Mexican fireworks had been limited. We did watch the burning of a castillo in a parroquia of Colima, Colima, during the 90s. It was fired as a 20 meter tall "castillo" tower of bamboo and whatever. There also were "toritos" or devil chasers, kids and men, wearing leather capes over their shoulders ran about with sparks shooting out of their bull horned heads.


One of the climactic moments was a fire portrait of he founding priest of the church. But he was outranked by a firework portrait of the Virgen de Guadalupe. (This was a long way from North Haven.) It was a nice time, especially the free musical concert and the comida casera for sale of las Señoras de la parroquia.


We once made a nightime visit to a small pueblo between Cuernavaca and Tepoztlán, Morelos, we looked in on the pirotecnos in a bodega of an ancient church, tying the tubes of powder to willow withes, painstakingly constructing the wheels of fire in the traditional way.

Below, a video showing similar methods.



But the last fireworks show came when we moved to Pátzcuaro, September 28, 2005. It was the multi-centennial, 300 years something, of the founding of the city. It was also my birthday, and our first night living (in a hotel) in Pátzcuaro. So it was that we took a late nap, and wandered down to the Plaza Quiroga (Plaza Grande), and placed ourselves into the midst of the firing range. No one objected, There were no barriers, no police nor fire department tape lines. You could be stupid as you wished if you wished to risk your hair, skin, eyes. No one bothered you. (Try THAT in the U.S.)



Above, the castillo.
Suddenly, the Plaza ignited into a frenetic and noisy illumination. Mortars were firing less than 12 feet from us. Thirty feet away, a castillo was burning, burning, spinning, showering and spitting sparks. Booms, flashes, smoke and cheers.




It was a great welcome to the Ciudad y Municipio de Pátzcuaro.


Below, big time Mexican Fireworks.

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Tres Años a la Hacienda

                   Photo courtesy of Geni Certain

   (This began as a comment to Felipe, on his blog, The Zapata Tales, and his post, "The Smells of Mexico".)
For me, nothing beats stepping outside the front door in the early morning to turn up the heat on the hot water heater, and inhaling that scent  of new mown hay and the sweet smell of recently born calves.
(Calves are so cute when young, then they grow up to be large, bespattered, klunky kows and pendulous toros.)
                    
                    Photo courtesy of Geni Certain
                  
But, after being out here at the Hacienda nearly 3 years, I don't mind the wet cow plop on the streets and roads. After all, it's 100% organic.
I'm not so keen on the canine road pudding about a kilometer on out toward the crossoads. But, on the other hand, the horse mummy along the base of the big hill on the way to Tzurumútaro is now curing nicely. The smell is hardly noticeable as we drive by.
As the dawn comes, the many birds began their varied musical choruses.
At la Casa Hacienda Cuevas, there is much baking, adding its aromas to the mix. However, my baking schedule is not as regular as that of Felipe's Guapa Señora, who bakes pastries to sell every Saturday under the portales of  La Plaza Grande.
What more could I want? A warm Danish pastry? I already have that before me with a mug of café de Chiapas.
Now, I want to toast the memory of Mel O'Hara, who died 3 years ago in his casita just over the way from our house. It was he that kindly lead us to our new home place. We liked the place right away, but now we love it.
Here's to Mel! I lift my coffee mug to his memory.

Tuesday, June 09, 2009

A Magic Utility Belt


Sometimes, fantasies come true.

When I was a little kid in Brooklyn, NY of the late 1940's
, I was given a belt, studded with fake "jewels" made of colored glass. In my imagination, they were control buttons that could invoke super powers. A touch of a green jewel, and I could melt into lithe thinness, and slide through the most densely crowded streets.

A touch of the red button would send me soaring at high speed, lightfooted, over the "EL" station stairs , on my way to buy hot dogs for our supper at the garlic fragrant corner deli.

Who could have imagined, that some 60 years later, it's possible, with a few keystrokes, to fly, perspectives constantly shifting, zooming and rotating at will; either from the mountains of Madrid or from the coast of Barcelona, para ver las calles in Street View photographs, then quickly jump to a specific address in San José, CA (Google Earth).

I can locate pizza places in Manchester, CT, or fish 'n chips shops in Manchester, England, complete with reviews and driving directions. Chiropractors in Cairo. (Google Maps); and visit places of color and wonder undreamt of in those earlier generations. I just spent a few minutes looking at my childhood neigborhoods to see what has change (much) and what has not. Google now has refined its maps and Street View once again. Check it out.


Later, as a teenager, I enjoyed spending many Saturdays at the New Haven, CT Public Library, getting books from the stacks on topics such as pyrotechnics and speleology.

Now, a vast and seemingly limitless worldwide library is open to me, both at home and when I'm away. I don't have to look in the card catalog, write out call slips, and hand them to the librarian, who'd give me suspicious looks, and wait very long for the desired info.


Back then, as a young kid, I was also enamored of a special sort of scrapbook/coloring book, which involved making waxed paper transfers of the color comics and such, then scrapbooking it. (Obviously, a dim memory.) Those were my multimedia tools of that era.

Now, after having learned some basic, then more advanced computer skills over the last 15 years, and with the help of tools such as Blogger, I can build a journal of my view of reality (and fantasy). Instead of waxed paper and a flat stick for image transfers, we have Copy, Cut and Paste, as well as Save and Save As.


Best of all, many of these powerful commands are accessible by keyboard shortcuts. I love keyboard shortcuts. Mousing is o.k. at times, but the speed and ease of keyboard navigation is unsurpassed.
(I can make this entire page vanish with the touch of two keys. I can change sites with a few keystrokes.)

My newest Magic Utility Belt is a MacBook Pro laptop. Although its powers are far beyond any childhood dreams, it still could be more portable. An iPhone or iPod Touch, with their amazing apps, accessed by touch screens, come a lot closer. But, ultimately, what I want is a belt in which a touch of a colored jewel or a combination, invokes a heads up, holographic display, and flys me to where I want to go. Meanwhile, I have posted these graphic examples of some other magic utility belts for your entertainment.





Monday, May 25, 2009

Regreso al Nido


We returned to Michoacan last Thursday, after a three week visit to the home of my parents and sister in New Jersey. It might be called a return to the nest, but, truthfully, it wasn't. I had never lived in that house, other than during our annual visits.

This visit was difficult at times. My parents are aging and my father is not well.

I'd left the nest in the 60's, when I went off to a rather irregular college experience. I'd always been the independence seeking one. What could be more independent than to later retire to a small ranching pueblo near Pátzcuaro, Michoacán?

Our Continental Express jet banked over a corner of Morelia, then homed in on the airport, located in the green, rain-refreshed valley northeast of of the city. From the window I glimpsed the broad expanse of Lago Cuitzeo, shining in the late afternoon sun, just over the ridges to the north.

We landed, and after a brief passage through Migracíon and Aduana, we were greeted by Nacho, our driver.
After loading the trunk with with our luggage, we rode off into the glorious sunset. I was animated and energized, until fatigue eventually set in on the hour and a half drive home.

A couple of days later I was cleaning the porch. Long, thin twigs littered the floor.

The mystery was solved when I went to move the barrel grill. There, on the utility shelf of the grill was an abandoned swallows' nest, under the shelter of the tarp. The only evidence of occupancy was a few wispy feathers.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

FAQ: How to get from MEX Airport To Patzcuaro

Over the last few years, I've received more than a few emails asking me how to best get from the Mexico City Airport by bus to Pátzcuaro. While I recognize that there are several ways to accomplish this, with the help of our friend, Big Tex, I have distilled the vital information down to to give the simplest, most hassle free way possible. This applies to travel in the daytime and early nighttime hours. We try not to take buses at night; it's just our personal preference, unrelated to any other issues.

This is a Public Service Announcement, brought to you by Don Cuevas, so don't give me any static. Like, you've heard that the Metro is cheap and fast. So? Go to some other website if you want to get fxxxed up in the Metro, not here.


At the Mexico City Airport, after passing Aduana and Migracíon, be sure to buy your taxi ticket at the official taquilla, or sales window, for example, Sitio 300, not from some tout. This is very important! The fares are calculated by zones. There are regular taxis, which are fine for most people's needs, and they are much cheaper than the large expensive Suburbans. Pay attention to which service you are buying. Once you pay for your taxi ticket at the window, you do not pay the taxi driver anything more, except for a very optional tip, if you had a lot of luggage, or his conversation was especial cool, whatever.

Once at Terminal Poniente, also called Terminal Observatorio, go to the AutoVias ticket counter. There are at least 3 desks, close by each other. It may take a moment to figure out which is the one needed. read the "Salidas" or Departures board. Credit cards are accepted for payment. If paying with cash, check your change. Get a bus direct (Sin Escalas) to Patzcuaro. While it does stop 15 minutes in Morelia, you stay on and do not change buses. Escalas are changes from one bus to anoher. No need, if you follow the easy directions here.

(Certainly, it's easier than taking ETN to Morelia, changing to a Patzcuaro bus once at Morelia for which a change of building is probably necessary as well.) It has to be faster to get an AutoVias bus, with more frequent departures, than the ETN. Though the AutoVias buses are one level down in luxury than ETN, they are quite comfortable. AutoVias has a separate waiting room, with free restrooms and free coffee. They will also check in your larger luggage while you are still at or near the ticket counter. The buses are equipped with passable restrooms. The movies are generally awful.

You get a crappy "ham" and cheese sandwich and a soft drink when boarding. I recommend Boing! a natural fruit drink. You can also buy decent baguette, croissant, or torta sandwiches or pan dulce at Terminal Poniente's restaurant or snack bar, inside. I avoid the outside stands and the inside carnitas places. The main restaurant does a decent breakfast. There's an internet place or two, which are sometimes open and sometimes functioning.

One drawback of AutoVias is that you can't yet book on line.
WAIT! You can now book on line, as long as your trip isn't very far in the future. Go to Grupo HP-Occidente , and fill out the forms and press the digital buttons, as requested. But it should be no problem getting a seat during normal, daytime non-holiday conditions, walking up to the counter and paying for the next available departure.

By the way, anyone who willingly books a seat at the rear of the bus, near the toilets, deserves the experience.

The trip takes 5 hours, more or less. If you follow my directions, hard-earned through personal experience, you will be all right. Once arrived at the Central de Autobuses de Pátzcuaro, you can get a cab, take a combi van if you know what you're doing, or even walk to Centro, if your luggage is light and it's still daylight. But I don't want to explain the last one. My work here is done.
¡Adios, muchachos!


Sunday, April 12, 2009

Piso Superior

We are always looking for a better baño when out and about. It used to be that a well maintained sanitario was often hard to find. In that situation, it was often a matter of "breathe through your mouth and squint your eyes." Now, after many years, things have improved.

Click photo to enlarge.

Quiroga was thronged with Easter Saturday visitors, we among them.
We'd been rooting through a medio kilo of well-salted carnitas and washing them down with muchos refrescos and bottled water at the Plaza. The moment came soon enough when we needed a baño pronto. It was best to seek relief there in thoroughly modern Quiroga before setting out for Tzintzuntzan, where the options might be somewhat marginal.

We finished up our nieves at La Michoacana, and walked back a half block to a set of sanitarios set behind a serious double revolving cage door. There was a coin slot for a 2 peso fee and a young woman handing out carefully folded papel higíenico. At that point, our roads forked according to sex. Women to the left, entering on the ground floor. Men had to achieve relief by first ascending a hallway with a steep, concrete paved ramp, inclined at about 30º, to the mingatorías* and excusados* some 10 or more meters up to the piso superior. Handrails and treads cut into the concrete ramp were provided for our safety.

The upper deck was highly functional, (except for the first 3 booths, which were afuera de servicio), attractive and well maintained. At the street side were stained glass windows. I didn't take time to explore in detail, but did my business and then, oh-so-discreetly, took a picture of the ramp.

This was indeed a superior pipí experience up on the piso superior.
I recommend it to visitors. Men should have strong legs.


*Basic bathroom terminology. Another free, educational feature of my blog.

"Sanitario" is a nice term, "excusado" is the porcelain throne itself. "Mingatoria" is a less-seen term for a urinal. Not so polite.

"No pise al pasto", on the other hand, is a sign to "keep off the
grass."

Tuesday, April 07, 2009

What goes around, comes around


Morelia's eastern and northeastern areas are less familiar to us than the southern and southwestern areas where we normally shop.
"The city is the biggest in the state, and the population of the conurbated area was 642,319 people (608,049 in the city of Morelia), according to the census of 2005..."
(wikipedia.org)

We know how to get to the Airport by the western peripheral highway, past the Bus Station, or up the more direct but often traffic clogged Calzada La Huerta-Héroes de Nocupetaro-Avenida Morelos Norte.

We left the MLM Airport yesterday morning, and with hopes for a simpler route, took the new toll road "Short cut" east of the city. It which turned out to be not so short. It debouched (no, not debauched) us into a major construction zone, where a huge trench, The Excavation From Hell, lay at the key city street intersection to where we'd really wanted to go. At that point my mental GPS crashed, and after at least one fruitless loop, we ended up taking an unplanned serial circuit back around the north side of the city. Fortunately, the traffic wasn't too bad once we emerged from the construction zone.
(General Confusion Fault Zone on this zoomable, draggable map.)

This meant that we had to skip the breakfast at Bisquets Obregón (not a major disappointment), and at it also seemed our shopping at Costco was doomed.

(enter sheepish pun area)
But what goes around, comes around, and nowhere does it apply better than to peripheral highways. We completed about two-thirds of the giant loop of the north side, and eventually found a parking spot near "Barbacoa de Borrego José Luis", about a 1/2 mile from Costco. The specialty there (and not much more than this) is pit-steamed mutton, wrapped in pencas de maguey (leaves of the agave plant), cooked for hours, until the meat is fork-less tender and a delicious consomé is produced. You can make your own tacos with the fresh, hot tortillas they bring you, or put the meat in the bowl of consomé, or order "montalayo", which we didn't, a sort of Mexican "haggis" of spiced, chopped sheeps's innards, usually eaten as tacos. All parts of the sheep are put to ewes. It's really delicious, if you're innardly oriented.
(exit sheepish
pun area)

From Costco, well-known territory for us, it was no big deal to get home. Our route had been lengthy, but at least we hadn't looped back to the Airport.

I posted our plight on the Michoacan_Net Yahoo Group, and got advice from a poster who often uses the short cut road. But I've yet to unravel his advice, because he knows where he's coming from and where he's going, so his easy reference to places unfamiliar to me does. not. compute.